MacauislargelyunchangedsincebeingreturnedtoChinaonDe—cember20th1999after112yearsasaPortuguesecolonyandvisitorsap—preciateit.Macauinhabitantsregardedthehandoverasamerechangeofad—ministration.Certainly,youseefewerPortuguesefacesonthestreetsnowadays,butthereremainsthecuriousmixtureofEuropeanflairandFarEasterntraditionthatmakethecitySOspecial.LikeitslargerneighbourHongKong,Macauisnowaspecialad—ministrafiveregionofChina,butitsspecialcapitaliststatusisguaranteedforthenext50years.WhenyoufirstglimpseMacauontheferryfromHongKong,itlookslessthanimpressive.TheskylineisdullcomparedtotheimposingglassskyscrapersofHongKong,andmostpeopledonottakethetimetorevisethisfirstimpression,devotingnomorethanadaytriptoit.Butthisdoesnotdojusticetothiscityoftwocultures,whichhidesplentyofin—terestingsecrets.TheMacauMuseum,whichopenedtwoyearsago,offersanexcel—lentintroductiontothepeninsula’Spastandpresent.Childrenloveitbe—causeitisfulloftechnicalparaphernalia.Youcanpressbuttonstolightuptraderoutesonmaps,ortohearthedifferenttypicalcriesofMacau’StradersJustafewmetresfromthemuseumisthecity’Smostphotographedsymbol:theruinsofSaoPaulo,theJesuitchurchbuiltin1602,althoughtodayonlyitsimposingstonefacaderemains.WhilethemajorityofMacau’SinhabitantsareBuddhist,somesevenpercentareCatholicandthereligioussitesofMacautestifytothespecialmixofeasternandwesterncultureshere.Aswellasthenumerouschur—chesinheritedfromPortugueserule,thereareverymanydifferenttem—ples.ThelargestistheKunIamTong.Inthemainhallofthistemple,gi—antspiraljOSS—stickshangfromtheceiling,rainingsmallpilesofashontheheadsofvisitors.Alongthesidesaresmallerancestorsroomscom—memoratingthedead.Thereisalsoaroomofplantswhichincludesaspecialbonsaitree,thetrunkofwhichhappenstobeshapedliketheChi—nesesignmeaninglonglife.ThecontrastbetweenthepeaceofthesetemplesandthebustleofMacaucitycouldhardlybemorestark.Thelivelypedestrianzoneflankedbycolonialbuildingswiththeirteemingsidestreetsarenotatallreminis—centofreligiouscontemplation.Localsandtouristssaunteralongwithshoppingbags.Macau,onthesoutheastcoastofChina,consistsoftheMacaupenin—sulaandthetwooffshoreislandsofTaipaandColoaneinthePeadRiverdelta.Ninety—sixpercentofthe450,000inhabitantsareofChineseori—gin.Anyonewhostaysafewdays,soonrealizesthatthecityissmallbutcharming.Yousoonstarttorecogniseafewfaces,eventhecitytrampsstarttobecomefamiliar.AlthoughthetourismindustrywouldliketOsellMacauasaracy,moderncity,itsrealappealisthatitoffersaveryquiet,relaxingcontrasttoHongKong.capltagrossnationalproductofmorethan17,000U.S.dollars.This‘1Smainlythankstogambling.FOrtypercentofallstateincomecomesfromthenumerouscasinoshere,theonlylegallyoperatinggamblinghallsonChineseterritory.