"When we knocked at the enormous outer door of a house as large as the Hotel Carnavalet,with a courtyard in front and a garden behind,the sound rang as in a desert.While my uncle inquired of an old porter in livery if the Count were at home,I cast my eyes,seeing everything at once,over the courtyard where the cobblestones were hidden in the grass,the blackened walls where little gardens were flourishing above the decorations of the elegant architecture,and on the roof,as high as that of the Tuileries.The balustrade of the upper balconies was eaten away.Through a magnificent colonnade I could see a second court on one side,where were the offices;the door was rotting.An old coachman was there cleaning an old carriage.The indifferent air of this servant allowed me to assume that the handsome stables,where of old so many horses had whinnied,now sheltered two at most.The handsome facade of the house seemed to me gloomy,like that of a mansion belonging to the State or the Crown,and given up to some public office.A bell rang as we walked across,my uncle and I,from the porter's lodge--/Inquire of the Porter/was still written over the door--towards the outside steps,where a footman came out in a livery like that of Labranche at the Theatre Francais in the old stock plays.
A visitor was so rare that the servant was putting his coat on when he opened a glass door with small panes,on each side of which the smoke of a lamp had traced patterns on the walls.
"A hall so magnificent as to be worthy of Versailles ended in a staircase such as will never again be built in France,taking up as much space as the whole of a modern house.As we went up the marble steps,as cold as tombstones,and wide enough for eight persons to walk abreast,our tread echoed under sonorous vaulting.The banister charmed the eye by its miraculous workmanship--goldsmith's work in iron--wrought by the fancy of an artist of the time of Henri III.