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說茶
\/鄧友梅\/
“香葉嫩芽，慕詩客愛僧家，碾雕白玉羅織紅紗，銚煎黃芯色碗轉鞠塵花，夜後邀陪明月晨前明對朝霞，洗盡古今人不倦將知醉後豈堪誇。”
這首寶塔詩是唐人元微之寫的，算不得最早的吟茶詩，足證明中國文人和茶結緣並不比酒晚，親密程度也不比酒差。文人如此，普通人更甚，如果作一次調查，喝茶的人八成比喝酒的人數多。開門七件事：柴米油鹽醬醋茶。北京的“六必居”據說是當年專賣六樣生活必需品，隻比以上少個柴字，兩者都不包括酒。
中國人喜好喝茶，到了走火入魔的地步。趙佶當皇帝時，放著多少急事不辦，卻寫了本研究茶的專著《大觀茶論》。從產地，種植，采摘，到製造與喝法寫的都地道，稱得上是全世界自古至今唯一有皇帝銜的茶葉專家。他當皇上要也這麼在行，不至於後來又當俘虜；我老家有個本族大輩，每天茶不離手，日本鬼子掃蕩時，大家逃難，他不帶行李卻手中提把茶壺。走在半路受到日本兵的追擊，叭的一槍正打中他的茶壺。人們全為他的性命擔心，他卻提著一對銅壺梁說：“可惜了這一壺好葉子！”是我一生中碰到的第一位把生死置之度外的勇士！
中國人喝茶的本事，也到了出神入化的地步。以修洛陽橋著名的狀元蔡襄，在喝茶上就有獨到功夫。據一本閑書記載，有人得到一點名貴的“小團茶”，知道蔡在這方麵是權威，就請他來品賞。蔡聽了高興，臨時又請來一位朋友陪他一同去。到那裏後主人陪他說了一會話，就叫仆人獻上茶來。蔡襄喝了兩口，主人問他印象如何？他嘖嘖嘴說：“茶是不錯，隻是裏邊摻了‘大團茶’，不純了。”主人心想這茶是新得到的珍品，自己親手交與仆人煮的，怎會有假？為證實心跡，就把仆人召來當麵問道：“我親手交你的茶，你可曾摻假？”仆人見問得單刀直入，隻好如實說：“原來備下小團茶是兩人份，我見多了位客人，怕分量不夠，又不敢找您要，我就摻了點大團茶。”主人聽了大驚，對蔡狀元的品茶功夫再不敢懷疑。這是名人逸事，可能有幫閑替他吹噓，我的老師張天翼卻給我講過一個叫花子品茶的故事。閩省有位舊家子弟，不務正業，隻好飲茶。最後窮得賣了老婆沿街求乞。因在家鄉受人白眼，便流浪到了潮汕地界。這天要飯要到一家著名的大茶莊門口。店主拿出幾文錢給他。他說：“錢不敢收，隻求賞杯茶飲。”店主就叫人把日常待客的茶端來一杯給他。他喝了一口，卻又吐了，搖頭說：“四遠聞名大茶莊的茶不過如此，承教了。”說完扭頭便走。這下子刺傷了店主的自尊心。就把他叫住，連忙吩咐把最好的烏龍泡一杯來。過了會茶衝來了，叫花子喝了一口，歎口氣說：“茶是上等的，可惜泡法低劣，糟蹋了！”店主聽了大驚，便悄悄叫人到後宅，要他小妾泡一杯來。這小妾是他新買的，模樣平平，就是善泡茶，店主就衝這一長處才買的她，過了片刻茶泡好送來，那叫花隻飲了一口就淚如雨下，泣不成聲。店主忙問出了什麼事，那叫花說：“這茶的味道使我想起了前妻，我從沒見有人達到她這樣火候……”那店主一問他的籍貫、曆史，果然和那小妾一樣。二話沒說，叫人給他包了一包上好茶葉把他打發走了。
皇帝和我那位同鄉大輩，對茶的嗜好雖如一，但他們喝的不是一種茶。宋朝時的貢茶是福建產的“龍鳳團茶”，從書上記載看大概是“紅茶鑲綠邊”，所謂半發酵茶，類似今天的鐵觀音、烏龍之類，近年市上也有“龍鳳團茶”賣，不知是否就是趙佶和蔡襄喝的那一種；我那長輩喝的茶我卻喝過。早年山東的農民全喝那個。是在集上賣醬油、糕點的攤上買來的。茶葉裝在一個大木箱中，黑不溜秋，連梗帶葉，既沒有小包裝，也不經茉莉花窨。沏成後褐中透紅，又苦又澀，我估計其助消化的能力是極大的。我很奇怪，我的家鄉是糠菜半年糧的苦地方，肚子裏沒什麼需要茶葉幫消化的，為什麼家家卻都喝茶！我問過老人此風由來。他說是無茶不成禮，山東是禮儀之邦，飯可以吃不飽，茶不能不喝。這話不能令人信服，我覺得家鄉人還沒傻到不管肚子饑飽隻講精神文明的地步。可也找不出更合理的理由來反駁他。這也可能我出生於天津並一直在天津度過童年，山東隻是我理論上的老家，對它的了解不深的緣故。
我小時家在天津，家裏也喝茶。喝的是小葉、大方、茉莉、雙熏等大路貨，其喝法卻是一家兩製：我姥姥家是純天津人。所以我家一年四季桌上擺著個藤編的壺套，裏邊放一把細瓷提梁畫著麒麟送子茶壺。我娘抓一把茶葉，把水燒得滾開，滴到地上先聽“噗”一聲響，這才高高的沏下去，製成茶鹵。喝時倒半杯茶鹵，再兌半杯開水，這雖有一勞永逸的好處，但實在喝不出茶葉的味道。我爹是山東人，但自幼外出，不知受了哪位高人指教，自備了一把小壺，沏茶時先用開水把小壺涮熱，放茶葉後先沏一道水，用手晃晃再倒出扔掉，再衝一次才可飲用。一次隻喝一兩口，馬上再對新水。事不過三。然後就倒掉重來。這喝法雖然出味，可實在繁瑣耗時。所以到我自己喝茶時這兩種傳統都沒繼承，完全另搞一套。
在天津我見過兩次特殊的喝法。一次是在梨棧。那時法租界的梨棧大街，勸業場一帶是最熱鬧的地方。在勸業場門口那個十字路口有個警察指揮交通。有天我坐“膠皮”去光明電影院看電影，車剛在路邊停下我還沒給錢，警察就招手叫拉車的過去，拉車的說：“勞駕，您替我看一會車，不知嘛地方又惹著他了。”車夫跑到警察身邊，警察說了句什麼，車夫拿著把缺嘴的大茶壺就跑了回來。滿臉歉意地說：“沒辦法還得耽誤您一會兒，老總叫我給他沏壺茶去。”過了會車夫把茶沏好送去，這才回來找我收錢。我遠遠看見那位中國籍的“法國巡捕”左手端著茶壺嘴對嘴的喝著茶，右手伸直，在兩口茶之間抽空喊道：“膠皮靠邊，汽車東去……”這事給我印象很深，我以為這是法國警察的特有作風，後來去巴黎，還有意觀察了一下，才知道巴黎的警察並不端著茶壺站崗。
另一次是法租界仙宮舞廳。一個偶然機會我隨親戚進了那家舞廳。在“香檳酒氣滿場飛”樂曲中，一對對時髦男女正在翩翩起舞，卻見一位老者，手執小茶壺在場子中央打太極拳，每作兩個動作就啜一口茶，旁若無人，自得其樂。多少年後我跟一個天津老鄉說起這件事來。他說此人有名有姓，是位租界名人。可惜我沒記住名字。